Click here for the instructions in PDF format for quick and easy printing – requires a new or updated version of Adobe Acrobat Reader.

Click here for the pattern piece(s) – requires a new or updated version of Adobe Acrobat Reader.

Havf a Heart™ Heart Ornament or pincushion in 2 sizes ©Tracy L. Chapman & Sew Thankful Inc. December 2011.  All rights reserved. Permission to copy and distribute this complimentary pattern at no charge to others, for personal or NON-PROFIT use, for guild and group projects is granted provided all copyright information and references to Sew Thankful are kept in tact one each and every pattern copy printed/distributed. Permission is also granted to individual crafters (doing their own sewing themselves)  to make reasonable quantities of finished items to sell at individual craft fairs, boutiques, etc. If quilt or sewing shops wish to share this pattern with their customers, permission is granted provided that a COMPLETE printed copy of this entire pattern with all copyright information and all references to www.sewthankful.com  is included along with the finished item at NO CHARGE for the pattern itself other than a nominal fee to cover cost of paper and toner. Pattern may be included in a prepared kit that is sold , subject to all the previous requirements. For any other use, please contact tracy@sewthankful.com to obtain the appropriate permission and/or licensing. Use of this pattern is voluntary. End user assumes all risk. Neither Tracy L. Chapman nor Sew Thankful Inc. shall have  any liability with respect to loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the information contained in this project.   SEW THANKFUL and the SEW THANKFUL logo are a federally registered Trademark/Service Mark of Sew Thankful Inc. Sign up for the FREE eNews at www.sewthankful.com for notice of future complimentary projects.

Make your ornament as plain or fancy as you desire.

Make it plain! You can use a single fabric (all 4 hearts the same color) or go scrappy with all 4 hearts different fabrics.  Make it fancy! You can make a truly special, customized ornament by using a solid fabric as one side (half) of the heart. Use the plain side as your canvas!  Embroider a name, date or special message. Or draw, paint, write, appliqué, embellish with beads, buttons, silk ribbon or hand embroidery, or other creative, personal, artful ideas.

Please read entire pattern carefully all the way through at least once before you cut or sew.

Two Sizes – Finished Measurements:

• Large – approximately 4.75” high x 5” wide, depending on how full you stuff it
• Small – approximately 3.5” high x 3.5” wide, depending on how full you stuff it

Materials required for EACH ornament: 

Click here for the project instructions in PDF format for quick and easy printing – requires a new or updated version of Adobe Acrobat Reader.

Click here for the pattern piece(s) – requires a new or updated version of Adobe Acrobat Reader.

Recently I pieced this utility/throw/snuggle quilt for my eldest son.

Piecing...on the longarm.

Laid out over the quilting machine

Lighting muted to show quilting texture on top

Back Side -- Sample of the Freehand Quilting Textures

Once I finished piecing the quilt on the longarm, I used the long rectangular strips as “freehand practice blocks,” doing something different in each strip/rectangle.

I have received numerous requests for how to do the piecing on the longarm.  What I am able to provide by way of  free instruction is limited to text description.

TERMS OF USE: This basic process is presented “as is” and does not constitute any type of warranty or guarantee for your outcome.  If you choose to use my process, you agree that you are using it at your own discretion, at your own risk and that you alone are responsible for your results.

My basic process for piecing on the longarm:

Backing fabric loaded on the longarm.

Quilt batting loaded on top of backing fabric.

Begin piecing top (on top of the batting & backing).  Personal side note: My favorite thread to use for piecing on the longarm is Superior So Fine.

Select a variety of strips, allowing two strips (same width of strip, but differing lengths) per row.  By having differing lengths, the center/off-center joins of each row will be staggered.

For each 2 strip (per row) section, I pressed the short, raw edge of one strip under (to the wrong side) 1/4″ — this is what will form the join in that row.

FIRST ROW: Lay fabric pieces right side up on top of batting, placing the pressed short edge of the one strip over (overlapping)  the other strip’s raw, short edge by 1/4″.  This is the row’s center (off-center)  join.  It can be be off center or wherever you want but please make it a DIFFERENT place in each row to eliminate bulk build up at the joins. Secure with a few pins.  Turn on channel locks of the longarm.  Stitch across the top edge of the pieces making sure not to hit any pins and going at a slow pace, smoothing as you go.  You may wish to remove the pins as you go or after you have finished stitching across the row. Once you get to the other side of the row, turn off the channel locks, go back to the center join and topstitch the pressed edge (center join).  Pull up the center join/topstitching threads as necessary, as you go.  I like to tie them off and bury them as I go using a Spiral Eye Needle.

ALL REMAINING ROWS: Row by row, lay the two strips wrong side up on top of the previously stitched row with the pressed short edge on the bottom and raw short edge on the top at the “off center” join. The raw short edge should overlap the pressed edge by 1/4″. Place a few pins across the strips (out of the way of  the stitching line) to keep the strips from shifting during the stitching process. Channel lock stitch 1/4″ (long raw edges) across the width of the quilt. You may wish to remove the pins as you go or after you have finished stitching across the row. Once you get to the other side of the row, turn off the channel locks.  Bring your iron over to the longarm. Press the long seam all the way across to set the seam.  Open and press the new row forward, toward you and on to the batting so that fabric is now right side up and the next row is formed.  Bring your longarm back to the center join and topstitch the pressed edge (center join).  Pull up the center join/topstitching threads as necessary, as you go.  I like to tie them off and bury them as I go using a Spiral Eye Needle.

Repeat as often as needed until the quilt reaches the length you desire, advancing your backing & batting on the rollers as necessary.

LAST ROW: Stitch 1/4″ from bottom edge.

Keep in mind that the piecing/stitching also acts as quilting and it is visible on the back (as rectangles).

Now go back and fill in all those rectangles with lovely freehand quilting!

Happy stitching.

About this technique: I am NOT the first to “piece” a quilt on the longarm. I learned the basics  from Deb Levy through her videos available to “Premium (paid) Members” at MQ Resource.   HOWEVER, my method is not exactly the same as hers.  Additionally, Deb stated in the video that piecing on the longarm was not original to her.  She did not say who was first, nor do I know who was.  Further, what I learned from Deb did not involve the center/off-center joining strips together within the rows. She demonstrated the sewing of single strips which were complete rows themselves.  I don’t know if others have done the ‘join’ or not.  Certainly, someone out there may very likely have thought of it. But no one ‘taught’ that part to me, nor did I ever see, hear, read about how to do it.  It was just something I thought to try when I was trying the basic technique and it worked for me.

Like to make hand-made Christmas ornaments? Want to add a little something extra to your package wrapping?  With just a little planning one or more of these can be fun family and/or group projects over the coming weeks heading toward Christmas.

Try making some fabric ornaments out of fabric scraps on hand. Here are links to the last several fabric Christmas ornament projects I designed/wrote:

Elf Pillows On Point

Elf Pillows On Point, Variation #1

Elf Pillows On Point, Variation #2

Ornament Pattern 2008

3 different Yo-Yo Ornies – 2007

The back story: When I tore my ACL and discovered surgery would be required to repair it, I learned that I would soon begin a love affair with ice packs. A friend whose son had a meniscus repair a year or so ago told me how to make my own ‘slushy ice pack’ that would be more malleable around the knee.  I gave it a try and discovered how fantastic these homemade ice packs really are. Only…I absolutely hated wrapping them in a towel.  The towel would slip and not stay securely on the pack.

Solution: Make my own Terry Cloth cover for each size.

©Tracy L. Chapman & Sew Thankful Inc. April 2010. All rights reserved.

User assumes all risk. Tracy L. Chapman & Sew Thankful Inc. shall have no liability with respect to loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the information contained in this project.

Click here for a printable PDF of this project (requires Acrobat Reader).

Please read entire pattern carefully all the way through before beginning.

Two Sizes – Finished Measurements:

• Large – approximately 12” wide x 12” tall
• Small – approximately 8” wide x 9” tall

Materials required for each ice pack and cover:

Instructions:

Prepare Ice Pack Insert:

• Combine Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol and water in 1^st double zipper freezer bag.  Carefully remove excess air from bag and close seal.  Place this bag inside the 2^nd double zipper freezer bag with seal at the opposite end.  Remove excess air from 2^nd bag and seal zipper.

• Use a permanent marker and label the bag “DO NOT EAT, DRINK OR INGEST”

Label Ice Pack Insert & Double Bag Solution

• Place pack in freezer several hours or until needed – the alcohol will prevent a super hard freeze, allowing the pack to be “slushy” and malleable.  If your freezer temperature setting is extremely low, the pack may become pretty hard over time.  Simply allow pack to set at room temperature for 10 to 20 minutes before use and pack will become more slushy and malleable.

Prepare Ice Pack Cover:

Prewash and preshrink Terry Cloth and cut to size(s) specified.

Determine which end will be the top/flap end of the Terry Cloth cover and “round” corners on this end, as shown.

• Hint:  Use a plate, roll of tape or any solid, flat, round object to achieve a nice, even rounded edge.

Fold ‘Accent Strip’ in half lengthwise with right sides out, match up raw edges and press.

Align raw edges of Accent Strip with raw edges of bottom of Terry Cloth, stitch using a ¼” seam allowance.

Press, fold snugly over to the other side and topstitch down.

• Optional:  Topstitch with decorative threads using a zigzag or decorative stitch.

Center and sew in ‘soft’ side of Hook & Loop Tape parallel to the Accent Strip, butted flush alongside the accent strip.

Center and sew in hard side of Hook & Loop Tape on opposite end and opposite side of Terry Cloth approximately 1/2” from top (raw) edge of Terry Cloth.

I recommend using a thread that matches/blends with the towel color for this. Doing so will help make the stitching less noticeable on the reverse side which will be seen when the flap is folded over.

Bring bottom (accent) edge of towel up toward top (raw) edge of Terry Cloth:

• For large size, place 3” below and parallel to top edge, pin to secure placement.
• For small size, place 2” below and parallel to top edge, pin to secure placement.

Press Binding Strip ¼” under (to the wrong side) on one narrow end.

Fold Binding Strip in half lengthwise matching raw edges with right sides out and press.

Flip the cover over.

Align folded/pressed narrow end of binding strip at one folded edge of Terry Cloth cover (raw edges out/aligned) and pin binding all the way around, as shown.

Note: As you pin, pull and re-position the previously placed pins from the other side.

Use a ¼” seam allowance and begin stitching on binding.  Continue sewing up one side, around the top and down the other side toward the opposite folded edge of Terry Cloth.

Stop stitching approximately 3” from the folded edge.  Backstitch to secure stitching.  Remove from sewing machine.

Measure and cut binding strip approximately ¼” longer than the folded edge of Terry Cloth.

Press the new end of binding under ¼”. Refold in half, align with edge of Terry Cloth cover, press again.

Binding Tail Turned Under 1/4"

Return to sewing machine and continue stitching all the way down to the end. Backstitch to secure.

Press binding toward the outside.

Press to the outside. Inspect seam all the way around to make certain all layers are sewn in the seam. Trim excess/bulky Terry Cloth from seam allowance (no more than 1/16^th – 1/8^th inch / do NOT cut too close to seam).

Clip curves carefully to reduce puckering (be careful not to cut into stitched seam).

Wrap binding around Terry Cloth edge snugly and press. Pin if necessary to secure, easing around the curved flap edges. Topstitch close to edge to secure all the way around. Return to sewing machine and continue stitching all the way down to the end. Backstitch to secure.

If desired, add decorative top-stitching all the way around for additional seam strength and visual interest.

Option: Add Decorative Top Stitching

Store your cover(s) in a location you will remember.  When you need to use your icepack, simply pull it out of the freezer, insert it into the cover and ENJOY the cooling sensation.  When finished, remove the cover and return icepack to freezer. This icepack can last years.

Note: Inspect icepack for leakage with each use.  If signs of leakage occur, simply re-bag the liquid in two new heavy Ziploc Freezer Bags.

The cover is machine washable – For best results, press hook and loop tape together securely to prevent snagging on other laundry items. Recommend cool wash, medium heat dryer.

Idea:  Consider adding embroidery (monogram or other designs, perhaps) or appliqué to the Terry Cloth for extra decorative interest.

Click here for a printable PDF of this project (requires Acrobat Reader).

©Tracy L. Chapman & Sew Thankful Inc. April 2010. All rights reserved.

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Happy Spring and Happy National Quilting Day! Did you know that the National Quilting Association has designed a free pattern for your group or guild as you celebrate National Quilting Day?

Check it out:  http://nqaquilts.org/nqday/nqday2010.php (this link opens in a new window).

I want to say a BIG “Thank YOU!” to everyone who wrote such warm and encouraging notes (both on the blog and through private email) to my last blog post.  It meant more than you can imagine! I really, REALLY appreciate your all your kindness, concern and understanding.

Status update – I have made good progress this week. I am down to one crutch (comfortably) and doc says I can get rid of it as soon as I feel ready.  I am ‘shooting’ for Tuesday, but we will see.  I have been diligent in working on my Physical Therapy, home exercises, stationary bike (I’m up to 35+ minutes now and have added resistance & a little speed), as well as the 6-8 hours a day on the CPM. It’s still a little (OK, a LOT) frustrating how much time is eaten up by all these requirements; but I believe that my investment of time and energy now will pay off.  In fact, I am already beginning to see proof of that.

Patience–especially with myself–has never been my strong suit, so I am learning life lessons on many levels. Thanks again for your kindness, encouragement and understanding.  I truly feel like I’m well on my way back to my energetic, creative self.