Do you have a small project–like the Double-sided Button Rick Rack Flower used here as a decorative zipper pull–that you’d like to hang as a decorative zipper pull or wall ornament or tree ornament or attach to something like a gift/package, etc. but you need a way to do so?
Adding a hanging loop is a super simple way to solve that problem and here’s how to do it in 3 easy steps:
1. CUT a length of string, yarn, narrow ribbon, bakers twine, etc. I usually go with about a 6 – 8 inch length unless I need a longer dangle. If longer dangle is necessary, then cut a longer piece.
Remember, the length of dangle will be 1/2 the length you cut MINUS about 1 inch give or take depending on how close to the end you tie your knot AND whether you are looping around a button (or similar) or through a hole.
2. KNOT the ends. Make the knot as close to the ends as possible.
3. ATTACH to your project. Loop the string around (or through–if there is a hole to insert through), then insert the “folded” end of your loop through the strings of the knotted end.
Click image to enlarge picture and view detail. Pull the “folded” end so that the knot disappears behind the button (or on the back side of your flat item if inserting through a hole.)
If you have a small fabric item that you need to add a hanging hole to, you could use an awl to pierce a hole.
Want the pattern for how to make the Double-sided Button Rick Rack Flower shown here? It’s included as a bonus in my StandZa Zip Bags sewing pattern.
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SEW THANKFUL and the SEW THANKFUL logo are a federally registered Trademark/Service Mark of Sew Thankful Inc.
This is not a new project. I wrote it way back in 2008 and I’ve shared it with eNews subscribers over the years.
However, it makes sense to share it here and now with all our blog readers.
This pattern/project was developed in response to the change in packaging for pocket tissues. As far back as I remember, pocket tissues packaging had a slit in the top, center of the package so you could pull your tissue out one at a time. Somewhere around 2008 (may be different for other regions), the design of that packaging changed so the opening was placed on the long SKINNY side.
These covers hold your tissues inside and allow you to access the tissue from the long skinny edge.
This pattern/project is being provided for FREE. Use of this project is at will of the user. User assumes all risk. Tracy L. Chapman & Sew Thankful Inc. shall have no liability with respect to loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the information contained in this project.
Permission to copy and distribute this complimentary pattern at no charge to others, for personal or NON-PROFIT use, for guild and group projects is granted provided all copyright information and references to Sew Thankful are kept in tact one each and every pattern copy printed/distributed. Permission is also granted to individual crafters (doing their own sewing themselves) to make reasonable quantities of finished items to sell at individual craft fairs, boutiques, etc.
If quilt or sewing shops wish to share this pattern with their customers, permission is granted provided that a COMPLETE printed copy of this entire pattern with all copyright information and all references to www.sewthankful.com is included along with the finished item at NO CHARGE for the pattern itself other than a nominal fee to cover cost of paper and toner. Pattern may be included in a prepared kit that is sold , subject to all the previous requirements.
For any other use, please contact tracy@sewthankful.com to obtain the appropriate permission and/or licensing.
Use of this pattern is voluntary. End user assumes all risk. Neither Tracy L. Chapman nor Sew Thankful Inc. shall have any liability with respect to loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the information contained in this project. SEW THANKFUL and the SEW THANKFUL logo are a federally registered Trademark/Service Mark of Sew Thankful Inc.
Sign up for the FREE eNews at www.sewthankful.com for notice of future complimentary projects.
Make your ornament as plain or fancy as you desire.
Make it plain! You can use a single fabric (all 4 hearts the same color) or go scrappy with all 4 hearts different fabrics. Make it fancy! You can make a truly special, customized ornament by using a solid fabric as one side (half) of the heart. Use the plain side as your canvas! Embroider a name, date or special message. Or draw, paint, write, appliqué, embellish with beads, buttons, silk ribbon or hand embroidery, or other creative, personal, artful ideas.
Please read entire pattern carefully all the way through at least once before you cut or sew.
Two Sizes – Finished Measurements:
Large – approximately 4.75” high x 5” wide, depending on how full you stuff it
Small – approximately 3.5” high x 3.5” wide, depending on how full you stuff it
Materials required for EACH ornament:
Large
Light Fabric: 12” x 6”
Medium to Dark Fabric: 12” x 6”
Polyfil or cotton stuffing such as Sweet Dreams by Quilters Dream
Batting Scrap: 6” x 6” (thin, flat cotton batting or poly fleece preferred)
Ribbon (silk, organdy, satin, etc.) you can use up to .5” width if it is a thin ribbon such as organdy or silk. .25” widths are recommended for bulkier ribbons
Ribbon (silk, organdy, satin, etc.) you can use up to .5” width if it is a thin ribbon such as organdy or silk. .25” widths are recommended for bulkier ribbons
*Note:Depending on the width of fabric, you should be able to get 3 + Large or 4 + Small ornaments from .25 yard of light + .25 yard of medium to dark fabric . Directional fabrics may yield less. You may also choose to make the ornament from a single fabric or from 4 different fabrics for a scrappy look. I recommend making one with contrasting fabrics first so you get a good feel for the construction process.
Recently I pieced this utility/throw/snuggle quilt for my eldest son.
Piecing...on the longarm.Laid out over the quilting machineLighting muted to show quilting texture on topBack Side -- Sample of the Freehand Quilting Textures
Once I finished piecing the quilt on the longarm, I used the long rectangular strips as “freehand practice blocks,” doing something different in each strip/rectangle.
I have received numerous requests for how to do the piecing on the longarm. What I am able to provide by way of free instruction is limited to text description.
TERMS OF USE: This basic process is presented “as is” and does not constitute any type of warranty or guarantee for your outcome. If you choose to use my process, you agree that you are using it at your own discretion, at your own risk and that you alone are responsible for your results.
My basic process for piecing on the longarm:
Backing fabric loaded on the longarm.
Quilt batting loaded on top of backing fabric.
Begin piecing top (on top of the batting & backing). Personal side note: My favorite thread to use for piecing on the longarm is Superior So Fine.
Select a variety of strips, allowing two strips (same width of strip, but differing lengths) per row. By having differing lengths, the center/off-center joins of each row will be staggered.
For each 2 strip (per row) section, I pressed the short, raw edge of one strip under (to the wrong side) 1/4″ — this is what will form the join in that row.
FIRST ROW: Lay fabric pieces right side up on top of batting, placing the pressed short edge of the one strip over (overlapping) the other strip’s raw, short edge by 1/4″. This is the row’s center (off-center) join. It can be be off center or wherever you want but please make it a DIFFERENT place in each row to eliminate bulk build up at the joins. Secure with a few pins. Turn on channel locks of the longarm. Stitch across the top edge of the pieces making sure not to hit any pins and going at a slow pace, smoothing as you go. You may wish to remove the pins as you go or after you have finished stitching across the row. Once you get to the other side of the row, turn off the channel locks, go back to the center join and topstitch the pressed edge (center join). Pull up the center join/topstitching threads as necessary, as you go. I like to tie them off and bury them as I go using a Spiral Eye Needle.
ALL REMAINING ROWS: Row by row, lay the two strips wrong side up on top of the previously stitched row with the pressed short edge on the bottom and raw short edge on the top at the “off center” join. The raw short edge should overlap the pressed edge by 1/4″. Place a few pins across the strips (out of the way of the stitching line) to keep the strips from shifting during the stitching process. Channel lock stitch 1/4″ (long raw edges) across the width of the quilt. You may wish to remove the pins as you go or after you have finished stitching across the row. Once you get to the other side of the row, turn off the channel locks. Bring your iron over to the longarm. Press the long seam all the way across to set the seam. Open and press the new row forward, toward you and on to the batting so that fabric is now right side up and the next row is formed. Bring your longarm back to the center join and topstitch the pressed edge (center join). Pull up the center join/topstitching threads as necessary, as you go. I like to tie them off and bury them as I go using a Spiral Eye Needle.
Repeat as often as needed until the quilt reaches the length you desire, advancing your backing & batting on the rollers as necessary.
LAST ROW: Stitch 1/4″ from bottom edge.
Keep in mind that the piecing/stitching also acts as quilting and it is visible on the back (as rectangles).
Now go back and fill in all those rectangles with lovely freehand quilting!
Happy stitching.
About this technique: I am NOT the first to “piece” a quilt on the longarm. I learned the basics from Deb Levy through her videos available to “Premium (paid) Members” at MQ Resource. HOWEVER, my method is not exactly the same as hers. Additionally, Deb stated in the video that piecing on the longarm was not original to her. She did not say who was first, nor do I know who was. Further, what I learned from Deb did not involve the center/off-center joining strips together within the rows. She demonstrated the sewing of single strips which were complete rows themselves. I don’t know if others have done the ‘join’ or not. Certainly, someone out there may very likely have thought of it. But no one ‘taught’ that part to me, nor did I ever see, hear, read about how to do it. It was just something I thought to try when I was trying the basic technique and it worked for me.
