Category: Tips

1. Incorrect Threading of Machine
2. Worn or Bent Needle
3. Incorrect Needle Type
4. Incorrect Needle Size for thread and/or materials being sewn
5. Incorrect Top Thread Tension
6. Incorrect Bobbin Thread Tension
7. Incorrect Thread Type for the Project
8. Too much tension or tugging on the project under needle (sewing or quilting)
9. Sewing machine needs cleaning and/or lubricating
10. Sewing machine needs servicing (deeper mechanical issues)

Number 1. The first–and easiest–thing you want to check is your thread path. Maybe you don’t think that could possibly be “it”. I get it. You may know how to thread your machine blindfolded in the dark and it might have worked just fine yesterday using the same thread you’re using now. BUT…but…but sometimes things get bumped or knocked out of place. Hey. It happens. So, simply double check your thread path. Better yet. Completely start over. Unthread it and carefully re-thread your machine according your your sewing machine manual. Check it. Has the problem been solved? If not, proceed down the list.

Numbers 2 – 4. The next 3 items on the list involve your needle. So, let’s just cut to the chase. Remove the old needle and replace it with a fresh, new, high quality needle that is the correct type and size for the threads and materials you are using and the type of sewing you are doing. I recommend Superior Needles for domestic machines.

Longarm quilter? Groz Beckert Needles are a good choice if you’re using a longarm, but be sure to choose the right needle for your machine (see machine manual or manufacturer recommendations).

Whether you are on a domestic machine, industrial machine or longarm quilting machine, your machine manual and manufacturer are your go-to sources for the type of needles your machine requires.

OKAY! Once you’ve got your new needle in place, go ahead and stitch another sample. Problem solved? If not, let’s continue down the list.

Number 5 and Number 6. These both involve the tension settings on your machine thread path (top) and bobbin case. PLEASE refer to your sewing machine manual for instructions on how to make these adjustments. If you do not have a manual, you may wish to contact your sewing machine dealer or an authorized repair person for assistance. Additionally–related to thread tension–it’s possible your thread is unwinding too loosely on it’s own before being fed through the machine. To check this, place a test piece of fabric under your needle and observe the thread coming off the spool as you stitch. A Handy Net placed over your thread spool or cone can quickly eliminate this problem.

Number 7. Use a good quality thread that is meant for the materials you are sewing and type of sewing you are doing. For example, a very heavy thread that is made for sewing upholstery is not going to work well on delicate lingerie or quilting fabrics; nor is a very fine thread going to work well on heavy or thick fabrics like denim (though in this case the problem is more likely to be breakage).

Number 8. Are you attempting to pull your project around under the needle? This is often the cause of skipped threads when attempting free-motion quilting at a fast speed. I strongly recommend SLOWING DOWN. Free-motion quilting is kinda like dancing, and your machine is your partner. If you are moving faster than your partner OR you have the pedal to the metal and it is moving faster than you, somebody may get their toes stepped on (or fingers sewn–OUCH!) or stitches may get skipped. Skipped stitches may also occur as a result of sewing a very heavy or large project that places a lot of weight pulling under the needle. Try adding support for your project (perhaps placing support tables or chairs around your machine to hold the weighty bulk of your project).

Number 9. Clean and lubricate your machine from top to bobbin according to your sewing machine manual.

Number 10. If none of the above have worked, the cause may be related to a deeper mechanical or technical issue. Parts wear out from time to time as they age or if they are heavily used. It happens. It doesn’t mean you’re a bad person or you don’t love your sewing machine. It may just be time to make an appointment for professional servicing.

I am frequently asked how I make templates for projects.  I’ve tried many methods over the years, but the one that works best for me and is absolutely the fastest, easiest and most accurate (in my opinion) is this:

1.  Always protect the original pattern/template piece.  Make a photocopy of your original template piece (make sure it is 100% the original size).

2. Use your favorite adhesive (i.e., I use regular school gluestick or fabric fix spray adhesive) and lightly but thoroughly coat the RIGHT side of the paper template.  Be sure not to over saturate or distort the paper.

3. Place a piece of Quilters Vinyl  or Collins Template Vinyl on top of the paper template (adhesive side to the vinyl).  The Quilters Vinyl should be slightly larger than the template piece(s). Make sure to smooth out any wrinkles.

• Quilter’s Vinyl is available at SewThankful in a pre-packaged 18″ x 1.5 yard cut or by continuous cut lengths.  I like this product because you can cut off as much or as little as you need.

• Collins Template Vinyl is available at SewThankful in a package of six  8.5″ x 11″ Sheets.  I ****LOVE**** to use these sheets when I’m making templates that take up the majority of an 8.5″ x 11″ page.

4. Allow adhesive to dry a few moments.  Check to make sure you’ve got a good adhesion of paper to vinyl.  If needed, add a little more glue or spray around any loose edges and allow to dry.

5. Carefully cut out template piece on the lines using nice, clean, sharp scissors so you have smooth edges.  Oh…did I mention?  Quilters Vinyl and Collins Vinyl are SO EASY to cut.  It’s like buttah baby…uh huh!

VOILA!  You have a FABULOUS template ready for tracing.  It’s perfectly cut and labeled with all the markings because you are using the actual paper template :-).  Template making joy…YES!